Diamonds
A short guide on the quality of Diamonds
GIA - 4 C's of Diamonds
Who is GIA?
Gemological Institute of America
GIA grades diamonds (and gemstones!).
GIA’s 4Cs transformed the way diamond quality is determined and communicated, forever changing how diamonds are evaluated, bought and sold.
The 4Cs are for everyone. This framework is both a way to better understand your diamond, and to ensure accuracy in the evaluation of your diamond’s unique characteristics.
It is the best way to ensure clear information, uniform practices, scientific grading and transparent evaluation in the global diamond industry.
Clarity
Every diamond is unique. Formed by extreme heat and pressure deep within the earth, it isn’t uncommon for diamonds to contain birthmarks. These clarity characteristics are created when small crystals are trapped in the diamond. As they grow, pressure and stress can cause inclusions and blemishes – sometimes only visible under a microscope.
The clarity of a diamond is based on the size, location, visibility and number of inclusions or blemishes.
F - Flawless
IF - Internally Flawless
VVS1/2 - Very Very Slightly Included
VS1/2 - Very Slightly Included
SI1/2 - Slightly Included
I1/2/3 - Included
Salt & Pepper Diamonds are typically graded as I2 or I3 due to the inclusions that make it "Salt & Pepper".
Color
The GIA D-to-Z Color Scale starts with D. To avoid confusion, comparison, or association with previous systems, GIA begins with the letter D as the top (colorless) grade. When the color starts to show through it is a warm tone.
D-F: Colorless
G-J: Near Colorless
K-M: Faint
N-R: Very Light
S-Z: Light
"Fancy" color refers to any diamond with a color outside of the normal color range.
Cut
The cut of a diamond is a question of craftsmanship.
When you hear words like Brightness, Scintillation and Fire, they describe how masterfully a diamond is cut.
A diamond’s cut refers to how it interacts with light.
Diamond cut grades are only given to round brilliant cut diamonds because they are the only cut that have standardized facets.
All other shapes are referred to as fancy shapes, which includes marquise, emerald, pear, oval, hearts and even triangles.
Carat
Carat measures weight, not size. Each carat is subdivided into 100 points, allowing for measurement to the hundredth decimal place.
Certain carat weights are considered to be magic sizes for their desirability – 1.00 carat, 1.50 carats, and 2.00 carats. Although it is difficult to visually distinguish a 0.99 carat diamond from a 1.00 carat, the price difference can be significant.
However, bigger isn’t always better because two diamonds of the same carat weight aren’t necessarily equal. It is essential to have the color, clarity and cut of a diamond evaluated as well. Remember, the value and quality of a diamond reflects all 4Cs and not just carat weight.
Diamonds & Diamond Simulants
Natural Diamonds: Ancient Earth & Rarity
Natural diamonds are the ultimate choice for those who value history, rarity, and the raw power of nature. Formed billions of years ago deep within the Earth’s mantle under extreme heat and pressure, each stone is a literal piece of the planet's history. For many, the appeal lies in this unique "story"—knowing your diamond is a finite, one-of-a-kind miracle that survived a volcanic journey to the surface.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
When it comes to daily wear, the natural diamond is the undisputed champion of resilience. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, which measures a mineral's resistance to scratching, the diamond ranks at a perfect 10.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Natural and Lab Diamonds (The hardest substance on Earth).
- 9.25: Moissanite.
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
- 7: Quartz (common dust/sand).
Because it sits at the very top of the scale, a diamond is impervious to scratches from almost any other material. It is the most "worry-free" stone for an engagement ring, guaranteed to retain its crisp facets and brilliant luster for centuries. Choosing a natural diamond is a commitment to a timeless heirloom that holds its value as both a physical treasure and a symbol of enduring strength.
Natural Fancy Diamonds: The 1% of the 1%
Natural fancy diamonds are the ultimate choice for those who value extreme rarity, prestige, and investment-grade beauty. While 99% of diamonds are colorless or faint yellow, "fancy" diamonds owe their hues to rare accidents of nature—like nitrogen creating a vivid Canary Yellow or structural pressure creating a rare Pink. Because they are so difficult to find in nature, they are the most expensive and sought-after gems in the world, often appearing in royal collections and high-end auctions.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
Like all diamonds, natural fancy diamonds are the hardest material on Earth. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, they rank at a perfect 10.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Natural Fancy Diamonds (The gold standard of strength).
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
- 7: Quartz (common dust/sand).
Because they are a "10," they are perfectly suited for a lifetime of daily wear without the risk of scratching or dulling. However, because natural fancy diamonds are so valuable, they are often treated as "wearable investments." Choosing a natural fancy stone is a commitment to owning one of the rarest treasures the Earth has ever produced—a stone that will likely hold or increase in value as the planet’s supply of natural color continues to vanish.
Lab-Grown Diamonds: Modern Science & Value
Lab-grown diamonds are the ultimate choice for those who value transparency, sustainability, and maximum brilliance. Created in controlled laboratory environments that replicate the Earth’s natural processes, these stones are chemically, physically, and optically identical to mined diamonds. Because they sidestep the traditional mining process, they offer a conflict-free guarantee and a significantly lower environmental footprint.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
Because they are real diamonds, lab-grown stones share the exact same legendary resilience as their natural counterparts. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, which measures a mineral's resistance to scratching, lab diamonds rank at a 10.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Lab and Natural Diamonds (The hardest substance on Earth).
- 9.25: Moissanite.
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
- 7: Quartz (common dust/sand).
Since lab diamonds are a "10" on the scale, they are just as tough and scratch-resistant as any stone ever pulled from the ground. They will never cloud, fade, or lose their sparkle over time. The primary difference lies in the price: lab diamonds typically cost 60–90% less than mined stones, allowing you to prioritize a significantly larger size or higher quality grade while maintaining the world-class durability of a diamond.
Lab Fancy Diamonds: The Rainbow Revolution
Lab-grown fancy diamonds are the ultimate choice for those who value vibrant expression, ethical transparency, and accessible luxury. In a lab, scientists can introduce specific elements—like boron for Blue or irradiation for Pink—to create "Fancy Vivid" colors that are almost impossible to find or afford in nature. Chemically and physically identical to mined diamonds, they offer the same jaw-dropping saturation at a fraction of the cost, making bold, colored engagement rings accessible for the first time in history.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
Because they are chemically identical to their natural counterparts, lab-grown fancy diamonds offer the exact same world-class resilience. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, they rank at a perfect 10.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Lab Fancy Diamonds (The gold standard of strength).
- 9.25: Moissanite.
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
Since they rank at a 10, they are just as "forever" as a natural stone. They will never fade in sunlight or lose their color over time. The real magic of lab fancy diamonds is the value: while a natural 1-carat pink diamond could cost $100,000+, a lab-grown version offers that same "Fancy Vivid" saturation for a price that fits a standard engagement budget. Choosing a lab fancy diamond allows you to pick a stone that matches your personality perfectly without the "museum-piece" price tag.
Salt & Pepper Diamonds: Perfectly Imperfect
Salt & Pepper diamonds are the ultimate choice for those who value character, mystery, and a "galaxy" aesthetic. While traditional diamonds are valued for being "flawless," Salt & Pepper diamonds embrace their internal inclusions. These tiny black and white carbon spots create a smoky, speckled look that resembles a midnight sky or a stormy sea, making each stone a miniature piece of abstract art.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
Because they are genuine diamonds, Salt & Pepper stones possess the legendary strength of their clear cousins. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, which measures a mineral's resistance to scratching, they rank at a 10.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Salt & Pepper Diamonds (The hardest substance on Earth).
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
- 7: Quartz (common dust/sand).
Even though they have a "speckled" appearance, they are still a 10 on the scale, meaning they are the most scratch-resistant stones in existence. However, because they have more "inclusions" (the little spots), they can be slightly more prone to chipping if hit hard. Choosing a Salt & Pepper diamond offers the ultimate "edgy" alternative: the world-class durability of a diamond combined with a moody, non-traditional look that stands out from the crowd.
White Sapphire: The Natural Understatement
White sapphire is the ultimate choice for those who value natural origins, subtle elegance, and a quiet luxury aesthetic. While it belongs to the same sturdy corundum family as blue sapphires, it lacks the chemical impurities that create color, resulting in a clear, silvery stone. Unlike diamonds, which have a "fire" that sparkles in rainbows, white sapphires offer a more muted, "crisp" brilliance that feels sophisticated and calm.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
When it comes to daily wear, white sapphire is one of the most reliable natural stones on earth. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, it ranks at a 9.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Diamond.
- 9.25: Moissanite.
- 9: White Sapphire (Corundum family).
- 7: Quartz (common dust/sand).
Because it ranks at a 9, it is incredibly scratch-resistant and will not dull over time. However, white sapphires can "attract" skin oils and soaps slightly faster than diamonds, which can make them look sleepy if not cleaned regularly. Choosing a white sapphire is a commitment to a natural, durable stone that offers a distinct, icy-white glow at a significantly lower price point than a mined diamond.
Moissanite: Celestial Fire & Innovation
Moissanite is the ultimate choice for those who value astronomical brilliance, modern innovation, and high-performance value. Originally discovered in a meteor crater, this "space diamond" is now meticulously crafted in laboratories to replicate its cosmic sparkle. Because it is created through advanced technology, it offers a completely conflict-free and environmentally conscious origin story. Its true appeal lies in its "fire"—moissanite actually has a higher refractive index than a diamond, meaning it reflects light with more colorful, rainbow-like flashes.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
When it comes to daily wear, moissanite is the only gemstone that can truly rival a diamond’s endurance. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, which measures a mineral's resistance to scratching, moissanite ranks at an impressive 9.25.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Diamond (the hardest natural substance).
- 9.25: Moissanite.
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
- 7 to 8: Common gemstones like Quartz or Topaz.
Because it ranks higher than sapphires and rubies, moissanite is exceptionally resistant to scratching, chipping, and dulling. It is a "forever stone" that will maintain its clarity and brilliance for a lifetime, even with constant daily use. Choosing moissanite allows you to maximize your budget without compromising on durability, offering a sustainable and incredibly radiant alternative to traditional mined stones.
Colored Moissanite: The Vivid Innovator
Colored moissanite is the ultimate choice for those who value saturated color, high-speed brilliance, and ethical versatility. Unlike traditional colored gemstones (like emeralds or sapphires) which can sometimes look "sleepy" or dark, colored moissanite maintains its famous "space diamond" sparkle. Whether it’s a deep London Blue, a forest Green, or a moody Grey, these stones are created by introducing minerals during the lab-growth process, ensuring the color is part of the crystal itself.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
Because it is still moissanite at its core, colored moissanite is the most durable "colored" stone you can wear. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, it ranks at a 9.25.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Diamond.
- 9.25: Colored Moissanite.
- 9: Sapphire and Ruby.
- 7.5 to 8: Emerald and Morganite.
Because it is harder than a sapphire, colored moissanite is immune to the "scuffing" that can happen to other colored stones over decades of wear. It is also more heat-resistant than a diamond, meaning it can withstand a jeweler's torch during repairs without any risk to its hue. Choosing colored moissanite allows you to wear bold, vivid colors that are "forever" in every sense—resisting scratches and maintaining its saturated glow for a lifetime.
Cubic Zirconia (CZ): The Accessible Icon
Cubic Zirconia is the ultimate choice for those who value perfect clarity, immediate affordability, and a "red carpet" look on a budget. CZ is a synthetic gemstone designed specifically to mimic the visual properties of a diamond. Because it is flawlessly created in a lab, it often appears "more perfect" than many natural diamonds, boasting zero internal inclusions and a high level of colorful "fire" that catches the light brilliantly.
Durability and the Mohs Scale
While CZ looks remarkably like a diamond, its physical composition is much softer, requiring a bit more mindfulness over the years. On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, CZ ranks at an 8.5.
To put that in perspective:
- 10: Diamond.
- 9.25: Moissanite.
- 8.5: Cubic Zirconia.
- 7: Quartz (common dust/sand).
At an 8.5, CZ is plenty hard for occasional jewelry, but for an engagement ring worn 24/7, it may eventually develop "abrasions" (tiny scratches on the facet edges) after several years of hard use. The primary benefit of CZ is its cost; it is the most affordable "diamond-look" option available, making it a popular choice for "travel rings" or for couples who want to prioritize their budget toward a home or a honeymoon while still having a breathtakingly sparkly ring.